Recit d'un trek de 3 jours ratissant le sud de
Mercredi 12 aout, 10h30. Deux guignolettes debarquent à l’agence Andes Salt d’Uyuni, pile à l’heure pour une fois. Une petite demi-heure plus tard, elles vibrent au fond d’un 4x4. Ca y est le trek commence. Avec elles, pour cette aventure, 4 autres touristes, le guide et le chauffeur. + 7 autres personnes dans le 2eme 4x4 et un 2eme chauffeur bien entendu.
Personnages :
Julia (australo-roumaine francophone) et Greg (italiano-luxembourg-francais), un charmant petit couple fort sympathique vivant à Sydney, avec qui nos heroines passeront d’ailleurs une bonne partie du voyage. Rahel (suisse), une bikeuse de l’extreme, fort sympathique aussi, qui fait globalement le même voyage que nos amies mais… en velo ! Cherry (taiwano-canadienne) une petite bonnefemme sans tact et sans gène mais parfois très gentille quand même. Juan (bolivien de souche), le guide qui n’aime pas qu’on l’interrompe quand il parle. Amilton, le chauffeur (bolivien) vient clore la composition du 1er 4x4. Le deuxieme se compose succintement de 3 anglaises, un anglais (baptise Judas), un belge, une inconnue et Cyril (un hollandais rebaptise Jesus).
Decors :
Successivement surrealistes, magnifiques, immenses, impressionnants, desertiques, touristiques, froids, venteux, incroyables, brûlants, inspirants, dur à photographier, assechants, peuples de flamands roses, vicachas, viscuñas, touristes, 4x4 et autres cactus…
Un salar immacule. Un desert rougeoyant. Des volcans fumants. Des formations rocheuses etranges. Des blocs de laves troues. Des lacs multicolors. Des lacs miroirs. ...
Sels, sables, borax, neige, poussiere … Il semble que nos 2 aventurieres soient passees par toutes les poudreuses de Bolivie! lol Vivement les grandes etendues verdoyantes d’argentine !
C’est parti. Le debut du voyage s’intitule “apprenons à voyager comme de vrais touristes”. Les 4x4 s’arrêtent sur un parking dejà rempli de 4x4s, derrière lequel se dressent les carcasses d'une dizaine de trains rouilles. Bienvenue au cimetière de trains d’Uyuni. Juan leur fait un discours explicatif au milieu des rails. Il faut l’ecouter (sinon il râle). Apres l’explication, nous rejoignons la bonne cinquantaine d’autres touristes qui s’amuse dejà à grimper partout dans les locomotives et autres wagons abandonnes là. A peine ont-ils eu le temps de faire qqs photos rigolotes que Juan vient chercher les retardataires pour repartir. Il ne s’agit pas d’être en retard pour le reste de la journee.
Ensuite se profile LE salar d’Uyuni. Une immensite blanche dans laquelle l’imagination de nos guignolettes se perd à peine poses leurs chaussures dans cet univers incongru. De là s’enchaine une journee de photos debiles, auquel tout le groupe s’emploie. Chacun essaye biensur de demontrer la plus grande creativite sur ce studio photo naturel parfait. Super lumiere sur les acteurs, decor sobre blanc neige et blue lagoon, sans limite. La journee se passe ainsi de village musee-boutique-de-souvenirs en sel au repas dans un hotel de sel, ca roule ca roule, de pause pres des piramides à la visite de la plus grande des “fish-islands” et ses cactus… Jusqu’à ce qu’enfin, le groupe se pose au milieu de nulle part pour admirer, juches sur les 4x4 ou à même le sel, le soleil couchant epouser cette mer immaculee.
La premiere nuit se passe biensur dans un hotel de sel. Le groupe apprend à se connaitre, progressivement. Un regain de creativite leur fait meme recreer la Cène. Nos deux voyageuses ne resistent bien sûr pas à l’envie d’apprendre la coinch à Julia et Greg qui sont bon public mais prefèreront (pour Greg en tt k) le Yams pour finir la soiree et le Cabernet Sauvignon.
Jeudi 13 aout, 6h30. Reveil difficile difficile. Un petit dej dans le ventre et les valises sur le toit, les voila repartis. Roule roule ma poule, fini le salar ils rejoignent le desert. Qqs heures plus tard les voila fraichement demarques au pied (a une centaine de km pres) d’un volcan fumant pour admirer les formations etranges de la lave, devenue orange. Roule roule raoul, et hop les voila cette fois-ci au bord d’un lac où il y a evidemment plus de touristes que de flamands roses. Mais ils se laissent gagner par la beaute du lieu. Un gigantesque miroir. Devant lequel ils pique-niquent.
Et hop roule roule ta boule, ils enchainent par un autre lac, encore plus grand où cette fois-ci les flamands roses ont pris le dessus sur les photographes. A perte de vue, roses ou gris ils s’epanouissent tous en couleurs. Roule roule ca la saoule. Oui il semble que Delph ne soit pas dans son assiette pour cette fin de journee qu’elle passera d’ailleurs en grande partie dans le 4x4. Survolant juste le repaire rocheux des vicachas, les arbres de Pierre, etranges sculptures naturelles au milieu du plus haut desert du monde et même le fabuleux lac colorada aux reflets rouges et changeants qui vient clore la journee des aventuriers.
Le deuxième hotel est bien different. A peine arrives ils y ont deja un peu froid alors que le soleil n’est pas encore complètement couche… Nous perdons D dans son sac de couchage, tandis que Virgin s’evertue à apprendre le
Vendredi 14 aout, 4h30. Reveil dans le froid, dur dur pour beaucoup. La nuit glacee, toute habillee, sous sac de couchage et 3 couvertures a requinque notre Dd. Les 4x4 s’en vont dans la nuit noire. Peu à peu le contour des volcans et montagnes apparait au son du jazz manouche qui ponctue ce bout de voyage. Nos aventuriers arrivent alors devant les fameux “geysers”. Certes c’est magnifique toutes ces fumeroles et trous bouillonants, le tout embaume d’une super odeur de souffre… Mais il n’y a point là de veritables geysers jaillissant du sol. Delph est decue parcequ’elle pensait voir les mêmes qu’en Iceland. Tant pis. Pour mettre un peu de piment dès le matin, Cherry decide de faire stresser un peu Juan en se perdant dans les fumeroles.
Roule roule c cool. Ils roulent vers les thermes chaudes dans lesquelles ils tremperont bientôt leurs pieds frigorifies, faute d’avoir le courage de s’y baigner complètement. Parceque, comme d’habitude, c’est plein de touristes. Dur d’assumer ce rôle de touriste quand on est si nombreux. Tant pis, le lac à côte des thermes est encore un grand miroir magnifique où flottent de grandes nappes de brouillards à travers lesquels le soleil se lève paresseusement. Notre groupe profite d’un mega petit-dejeuner, le dernier repas commun avant de se remotiver en admirant le paysage et de reprendre la route.
Roule roule les moules. Et voila un dernier arrêt au fameux laguna verde, encore un grand miroir dans lequel se reflète un des volcans rougeâtres du desert de Dali qu’ils traversèrent rapidement juste après. Au milieu de ttes ces couleurs picturales se dressent une petite cabane, le poste frontière de sortie de Bolivie, la fin du trip. Le groupe se separe alors joyeusement. Les guignolettes, Julia, Greg, Rahel et deux anglaises prenant la route pour le Chili tandis que les autres rejoingnent tranquillement Uyuni.
Intutile de dire que ce fut une magnifique experience, tant humaine que paysagesque, dont tous se rappelleront surement longtemps. Cloturons ce récit par une belle image : Rahel, en manteau rouge sur son velo plein de petites valises noires, passant tranquillement sur la route à cote du gros panneau vert indiquant “Republica de Chile”, salues par les volcans Dalidiens dans ce grand desert doré…
( Illustrations complementaires disponibles sur : http://www.flickr.com/photos/39909332@N03/ )
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