Et nous voici de retour à Missahualli après un petit detour de (à peine) 6h de bus à Otavalo.
Otavalo est une petite ville située au nord de Quito dans les montagnes. Pour vous décrire les habitants, prenez le cliché d'un péruvien : poncho, chapeau, nez crochu, visage figé...On vous aurait bien dévoilé quelques photos mais ces gens ne se laissent pas photographier. Seuls nos souvenirs auront figés ces visages marqués. Le jour du marché, Otavalo se métamorphose. D'un petit village calme se réveille une activité haute en couleurs, les rues grouillantes explosent de mille parfums. D'une place à l'autre, on change de décors : des frippes et artisanats touriqtiques on passe à une cascade de fruits et legumes inconnus. Plus loin une odeur prenante de viande et poisson s'impose à nos narines. Nous nous refugions derrière un comptoir de l'allée des cantines pour y avaler une soupe, un plat bien garni et une coupe de fruits, le tout pour 1 modeste dollar.
L'après midi, en bonnes Guignolettes, nous avons tenté l'ascension d'une colline pour profiter de la vue sur un lac et un volcan malgré un ciel chargé comme une panse d'âne. Ca n'a pas loupé, on s'est pris une averse monumentale alors qu'on était coiffées de nos superbes panamas flambant-neufs (qui craignent l'eau évidement). On a réussies à se planquer sous un toit, juste avant que la foudre n'éclate à 10 mètres de nous!! brrr
Vint la nuit. Ce soir là, commencait la fête de la Saint Jean. Tout le village était réuni sur la place centrale. Assis sur des grandins, les gens attendaient patiemment. Nous fîmes pareil...deux heures passirent...rien. Mon superbe espagnol et moi nous nous lançâmes à la recherche d'informations. Les festivités débutent à minuit (A ma montre 21h..deuxieme guignoleterie). C'est alors qu'on decida de se ballader dans les rues où il semblait y avoir plus d'ambiance. Effectivement, des petits groupes se dandinaient tout en formant un cercle autour de quelques musiciens. Comme il commencait à faire froid, nous nous sommes jointes gaiement à eux, immitant leurs petits pas saccadés jusqu'à...(3e guignoleterie) ce qu'on s'apercoive qu'il n'y avait que des hommes dans ces rassemblements! Normal, la San Juan est une fête pour les hommes, ils dansent, boivent, chantent..et cela pendant 3 jours. Sur le coup, on s'est senties très Guignolettes. Mais heureusement, aucun malaise dans les rangs devant notre manque de discipline face à leur tradition. On se retira gentillement, reprenant place discrétement dans la foule de spectateurs (et spectatrices !). Nous avons vu (et participé à) la San Juan, premiere fête traditionnelle d'une longue liste qui va jalonner notre parcours.
Pendant que je vous écris, une pluie diluvienne s'abat sur Missahualli. Delfina est allée se baigner, je me demande si elle ne s'est pas noyé? Bon je vais aller voir ca.
Sinon, départ dans une heure pour Banos.
A la prochaine, tchao bonsoir.
V
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