Comment? On ne vous a tojours pas fait une description de l'art culinaire peruvien? Rrroooo....
Mais avant toute chose, nouvelle photos en ligne!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39909332@N03/
Commencons dans l’ordre. Deja le desayuno (ptit dej) a la peruvienne est composé d’une soupe, d’un plat a base de riz et de viande et de mais, et une tasse de mate de coca ou de muña de gato (plantes digestives) pour faire passer le tout. L’addition n’exede pas le 5 soles : 1,50 euros. Bien sur, nous tournons plus au pains-beurre-confiture et café instantané sil y a.
L’amuerzo (plat du jour) c’est pareil. Ajouter une soupe en entrée et quelques papas fritas (frites) en plus, accompagné d’un jus coupé a 80% a l’eau…
Bref pas tres appetissant mais il fallait bien commencer par la cuisine populaire.
A la carte! (nous y voila), on trouve : le fameux cuy (prononcer “couille” : cochon d’inde grillé. Elastique, pauvre en viande, servi coupé en 2 dans le sens de la longueur…1/10), le lomo (bonne piece de boeuf grillé aussi fondant que du beurre dans les plus grands resto), le pescado a toutes les sauces (poissons), le poivron farci (qui est sensé rappeler l’explosion d’un volcan…6/10), tacu tacu (riz grillè avec des haricots, pas mauvais), tortillas, pastas, pizzas et sopas sont sur toutes les cartes, les jugos aux fruits exotiques sont excellents, le vin mediocre, le pisco sour est la boisson nationale (alcool de vin melangé avec un jus et un oeuf) et pour les postres (desserts. Oui, c’est aussi un cours d’espagnol culinaire cet article!) euh…on trouve surtout des gros gateaux de 30cm d’epaisseur style mariage…beurk. On se tourne plus vers les glaces, gateaux au choc et cookies (on n’avouera pas le nombre de kilos pris!).
Et donc Arequipa, ville du plaisir des papilles? C'est vrai! Steak d’autruche ou d’Alpaga accompagné d’une puree maison et ratatouille au four, mijoté de boeuf cuit au four pendant quatre heures, risotto a la sylvestre, raie au beurre noire, osso buco, farandolle de desserts somptueux, bons chardonnays…un vrai delice pour le prix d’un simple restau en France!
Clouons le chapitre gastronomique pour parler de la troupe.
Helas, nos joyeuses trompettes se sont dispercé aux 4 vents…Claire et Nico se sont allé au Chili avant de prendre Avión pour l’Australie! Nico a trouvè un poste de sommelier dans un des plus grand restau de Sydney. PA et peut etre Helene sont en route pour l’Europe de l’est et MA pour la France. Pour l'heure, ils sont entre Nasca et Lima. Quant a vos Guignolettes, elles se préparent a atteindre le Chili dès demain. Notre programme (approximatif) : Ariqua (Chili), parc de Lorca (ballade, camping…?), Sajama (Bolivia), Sucre, Potosí, desert d’Uyuni, desert d’Atacama (Chili), Salta (Argentine), Buenos Aires…PAris!
Enfin, un recit sur notre sejour arequipien. Apres notre tumultueuse arrivée en bus, nous nous sommes refugié dans un paisible restaurant, bercés pas quelques flutes de pans et un soleil radieux. Le soir, certains d’entre nous avons fair une tentative d’Harry Potter en VO, sauf qu’il n’ y avait plus de place… Le lendemain, visite du somptueux monastere Santa Catalina, le paradis des photographes. A midi, resto de poissons tres VIP, ambiance plutot playa branchouille pour une cuisine qui vaut peut etre pas le detour. Ballade digestive, mirador orienté vers les volcans enneigés des alentours. Puis resto enchanteur du soir, du moins pour ceux qui avaient l’appétit. Lendemain, rafting pour les courageux. Notre boss s’appelle Hugo, il profite de mon explosion du genoux sur un rocher pour me soigner et nous filer rencart le soir meme dans un bar francais…On y restera 10 minutes avant de s'énfuir discretement, preferant rester entre nous pour notre derniere soiree. L’apres midi, petit tour sur la place des armes, shopping pour d’autres, puis sieste devant un musée renfermant les enfants incas sacrifiés pour apaiser la colére des Dieux…on s’est finalement reveille trop tard pour la visite! Puis la derniere sena (diner) que nous fimes dans un des meilleurs resto d’Arequipa, arrosé de bons vins et de discours émouvants.
Super experience que se regroupement de personnes de tout horizons. On s’est tous tres bien entendí et l’organisation pas toujours evidente s’est relativement bien passé. Le plus decevant de ce voyage a éte nos trop nombreux malades…chacun son tour, qui freinait le moral et la motivation trop souvent.
Nous revoici donc en duo de choc pour affronter le canyon le plus profond du monde : El Colca. 3 heures de bus pour atteindre Chivay. Delectation dans les termes isolées de Yanke : seules au monde a patauger dans des eaux a 35 degre, entourées de paysages grandioses le pied! Deux autres heures de bus pour Cabanaconde. Nuit froide dans un dortoir pour se lever a 5h du mat. Direction l'oasis de Chagalle, au creu du canyon. On part de tres bonheur car il faut compter 2h de descente et 4h de monter, notre bus est a 14h. Au bout d'une heure trente, nous sommes obligées d'admettre s'etre trompé de route... Les chemins deviennent arbitraires, acrobatiques, approximatifs, bref, on fait demi-tour, renoncant a descendre plus bas. Sauf que sur la route du retour, on croise le bon chemin, bien plus touristique d'ailleurs. On se lance donc sur le trek number 2 for the oasis perdu. Au bout d'une heure trente, le voila enfin, charmant, ensoleillé, paradisiaque. Sauf que je sais deja que le retour risque d'etre difficile sous cette chaleur etouffante, une cheville toujours pas guerrie, un genoux en panne et des pieds epuisés. Notre sauveur : le muletier ! Nos pauvres mules nous ont donc peiniblement trainées jusqu'au sommet pour prendre dans les temps notre bus. Faut noter qu'a l'arrivée, le mal des cuisses s'était ajouté a la liste! 5 heures de bus et le courage d'aller affronter HArry Potter and the half bloody prince (oú j'ai peut etre roupillé quelques quarts d'heures....)
Peut etre que dans un prochain article, on vous fera, Delphine et moi, notre compte rendu sur le Perou. Pour l’heure, je vais me diriger vers un restau marocain oú Delphine m'attend pour nous payer un tajine au citron! Hihi! (On fait des reserves avant le Chili oú parait-il, la gastronomie laisse a desirer…)
A bientot. (Qu'il est long cet article!!!!)
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